Everyone’s talking about smart textiles – fabrics that can do more – and they’re becoming increasingly attractive as the AI revolution continues to unfold. But what exactly does it mean? What is their potential – and where are the limits of science?
by Silke Bücker

Smart textiles represent a new generation of functional materials – clothing that not only protects, but also measures, analyses and even provides energy. They combine textile properties with electronic intelligence and are used in fashion, furniture, vehicles and architecture. This is made possible by combining a wide range of materials with microelectronics, sensors or conductive yarns. As technology and textiles become increasingly intertwined, the balance between everyday usability, durability and sustainability becomes more complex. Clothing that is worn next to the skin – to monitor vital signs during exercise, for example – places particularly high demands on technology. Smart textiles are often only partially washable and, at the end of their life cycle, the materials often cannot be separated, making recycling difficult or impossible. But the technology is developing rapidly.

Early Attempts and New Approaches
An early example that was criticised for both its sustainability and recyclability, and therefore failed to gain long-term traction, was the Commuter Trucker Jacket developed by Levi’s and Google in 2017. The classic denim jacket model was outfitted by Google with woven metal threads and a touch-sensitive cuff. The smartphone could stay in the pocket – it was controlled directly through the sleeve. The jacket was launched at a price of $350 – but its durability was limited from the start, with the technology only able to withstand up to 30 machine washes.
More recent developments show a growing awareness of circular approaches. Chemnitz University of Technology, for example, has developed a method for recovering metals such as silver, copper and nickel from textiles, with the aim of returning them to the material cycle.Californian start-up Art by Physicist incorporates solar film into jackets and dresses that can generate up to five volts to charge electronic devices on the move. When the film is no longer usable, it can be easily removed, replaced and fully reused – all without the use of harmful substances.

High-Tech on the Skin: When Clothing Becomes a Computer
The MIT Media Lab in Massachusetts has gone one step further: a research project has developed a flexible, washable fibre computer that can be integrated into shirts or leggings. The aim is to monitor bodily processes in real time and react immediately to deviations or risks – without the wearer being aware of the technology.
Unlike conventional wearables, which typically monitor only specific areas such as the wrist or chest, fully functionalised textiles enable almost complete data collection. The human body constantly emits information – in the form of heat, sound, biochemicals, electrical impulses or light. This data provides valuable insights into health, stress or emotional states.
The idea of using smart clothing to analyse these signals instead of letting them go to waste opens up a wide range of applications, particularly in areas of high physical exertion or medical rehabilitation. The high-tech fibre is currently being tested and will soon undergo a stress test under extreme conditions.In February next year, soldiers from the US Army and Navy will be outfitted with networked Merino mesh shirts during the Musk Ox II Arctic mission, where they will cover around 1,000 kilometres in average temperatures of minus 40 degrees Celsius. The textiles will provide real-time data on their physical condition, with the aim of identifying stress reactions early and preventing health risks.




Bio-Innovation: When Nature Gets Smarter
It is not only technology-based approaches that are making textiles smarter – nature is increasingly becoming a source of innovative and sustainable solutions. Finishing and processing methods play a key role in optimising the performance of eco-friendly materials. Canadian company Vegeto Textiles, for example, has developed an insulating filling based on milkweed, biopolymer fibres, corn starch and kapok. This warming fibre solution contains no animal or petroleum-based raw materials such as down or polyester. The Swiss company Ocean Safe offers a biodegradable polyester fabric that matches the performance of traditional synthetic fibres, but without the environmental impact.

Companies are also setting new standards in interiors: wallpaper manufacturer Marburg introduced Terra, the first clay-based wallpaper. This ancient building material not only regulates room humidity but, thanks to its mineral components, also reduces fine dust and airborne pollutants – making a tangible contribution to a healthier indoor environment.
Textile manufacturer Trevira CS recently launched Breathair, a recyclable upholstery material made from continuous filaments with a 3D structure. It offers maximum seating comfort, promotes blood circulation and is durable, water repellent and flame retardant. Fabdesign Inc. in California uses the additive power of knitting to produce 3D textile constructions for the automotive industry – such as seats, interior trim or dashboards – with integrated functions such as sensors, massage, heating or cooling to enhance driving comfort.
Belgian company Devan, which has specialised in functional textile solutions for over 40 years, takes a different approach. With Purissimo, it offers a textile-based answer to pet dander allergies: encapsulated, inactive probiotics are activated by friction, releasing spores that transform into beneficial bacteria that then break down allergens from dogs and cats.

Artificial Intelligence in the Textile Space
The extent to which artificial intelligence is already shaping the development of smart textiles – and how it could accelerate it in the future – is demonstrated by a stunning art installation by New York-based Jenny Sabin Studio, in collaboration with Microsoft Research. Ada, a tribute to computer pioneer Ada Lovelace – is a project that combines 3D-printed nodes, fibreglass rods, LEDs and optical fibres with photoluminescent knitted yarn to create a hybrid structure of material, technology and architecture.
The installation, currently on display in the atrium of Microsoft’s headquarters in Redmond, Washington, responds in real time to the moods and emotions of the people in the room. This is made possible by AI-powered data collection, which is reflected in light patterns and colour gradients. More than a work of art, Ada is a form of emotionally intelligent architecture that not only impresses visually, but also supports interpersonal interaction and creates atmosphere.
A Future with Feeling and Intelligence
All these examples demonstrate the potential of smart material systems – as hybrid solutions that combine technology, design and functionality. The future of smart textiles will be defined not only by their technical sophistication, but also by their sustainable harmony with people and the environment. If functionality, durability and circularity can be reconciled, smart materials could evolve from niche innovations to everyday essentials – quiet, efficient, indispensable.



About the Author
Silke Bücker works as a freelance journalist, communications consultant and lecturer in Cologne. She specialises in fashion, sustainability and brand staging. She was editor-in-chief of the trade magazine TM Textilmittelungen and designed brand appearances for clients such as Hanro, Armedangels and Bogner under the umbrella of her agency Modebureau Silke Bücker. She writes for trade and lifestyle media and teaches at the AMD in Düsseldorf.
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