Mühle embodies a living shaving culture. Based in Saxony’s Erzgebirge region, the company is celebrating its 80th anniversary this year – and has long won over an international clientele with its carefully crafted products. A perfect moment to speak with Andreas Müller, who runs the family business together with his brother Christian.
Interview by Gerrit Terstiege
Mr Müller, looking back on Mühle’s eighty-year history today: What are the particular highlights? What role has innovation played for the company, both then and now?
It was always a highlight when we were able to build a new factory, as this was made possible by the conditions and turnover. We received a lot of praise from the architecture press for our new factory. Another highlight was our collaboration with designer Mark Braun. He designed a product line for us featuring a hexagonal handle called Hexagon — a design that polarises opinion, but which has also received a lot of recognition. Our collaboration with Porzellanmanufaktur Meissen was also very special. Looking back, we can say that it went very well for both parties.
In terms of innovations, we have developed synthetic fibres for shaving brushes at product level, for example. In the past, we mainly used badger hair. Such natural hair products are still in demand, but we have introduced a high-quality vegan alternative that performs even better than natural hair. Rather than trying to imitate natural hair, we asked ourselves: What would the ideal shaving brush look like? Innovation also plays a key role in digital processes. This is evident in production and in the way we reach our customers, for example.
You use the term shaving culture. What does it represent?
For us, shaving culture means transforming wet shaving from a duty into a beautiful ritual. It’s something that can be enjoyed and perhaps also offers a chance to relax. A few minutes of enjoyment. This includes tools that you enjoy using. It also includes great care products, some of which have a long tradition — for example, those from Italy or England.
I first became aware of the Mühle brand at Manufactum. It’s important to get a feel for the weight and surface textures before making a decision...
Although they only have selected products and cannot offer a wide range, Manufactum is definitely an important retail partner.
This is what your flagship stores are for.
Exactly. But we don’t have a nationwide network. This is why it’s important for us to showcase our products online. This allows people to get an idea of what the products are like without having seen or held them in their hands. However, we also want to support traditional retail. Small, owner-managed, independent shops are still very important to us.
What role do digital technologies play at Mühle? For example, how are they used in sales, production and customer service? Are there any ongoing transformation processes in these areas?
We control the entire production process digitally. All production steps are scanned continuously, so we always know how many parts are tied up in each production order and how far they have been processed. We also know when the products can be ordered. We use a CRM system to optimise our customer relationship management, particularly with end users, including during the after-sales phase. E-commerce plays a central role in customer acquisition, both via our own website and for our retail partners. I would estimate that around 80% of our products are purchased online.
You might think that Gillette, which is owned by the American company Procter & Gamble, is your biggest competitor. But you actually work together. How did this collaboration come about?
Gilette approached us. Originally via a market research agency. In the course of the dialogue, both sides saw potential and we expanded our collaboration. Today, we produce a whole range of Gillette-compatible razors that have generated a high demand for blades over the years. I think a Gillette Fusion blade is changed every 8 to 10 days, so maybe three times a month. That means a certain volume of blades. Especially because our customers are very loyal. Once you have a Mühle razor that is compatible with Gillette blades, you will most likely use it for the rest of your life. That makes this co-operation interesting for Gillette too.
Speaking of Gillette, the Braun brand also belongs to Procter & Gamble. Braun is renowned for its long-standing tradition of designing high-quality electric shavers. What are your thoughts on this?
This design tradition, characterised particularly by Dieter Rams, commands my respect and admiration. Braun design has played a significant role in German design history and has inspired many, including us. Braun’s dry shavers are, of course, well-justified. Many people find them effective. However, the wet shaving market is also stable. For some customers, only one method works; for others, only the other method works. Some switch back and forth. Personally, I’ve never warmed to dry shaving, not for design reasons, but because I find it less thorough.
Do you think that Mühle has a particular design language? Or is it important to you that they offer a wide range of products?
Diversity is important to us. Nevertheless, I think there is something of a Mühle signature. With the newer product lines in particular, our style has become very clean and tidy. You often see a basic cylindrical shape, but we create variety through patterns, surfaces and materials. All products have one thing in common: our commitment to high design quality.
Design companies are not the only ones concerned about sustainability. How does Mühle approach this topic?
Sustainability plays a very important role for us. The high quality of our design and workmanship ensures a long service life. We have also made our razors repairable. Replaceable brush heads are now available for most models. We only use paper and cardboard for our product packaging, without transparent plastic windows or similar. Even with cosmetics, we ensure that our packaging is as environmentally friendly as possible, avoiding outer packaging and plastic cushioning material wherever possible. We also avoid using plastic film or parcel tape and send our parcels in a CO₂ neutral way. In addition, we operate largely CO₂ neutral at our site. We offset any gas consumption needed for heating. The new hall is heated using geothermal energy and we produce all our electricity from renewable sources. Thanks to our own photovoltaic system, we also produce a good proportion of this ourselves.
‘A brand has to be consistent and holistic: it must speak its own language across all areas. You can’t achieve that overnight. It’s a process.’
– Andreas Müller
Your branding, product design, visual language and the architecture of the new factory hall are characterised by clarity, simplicity and conciseness. Was it a long and difficult process to develop this brand image?
Yes, it was. A brand has to be consistent and holistic: it must speak its own language across all areas. You can’t achieve that overnight. It’s a process. When it comes to brand management, you can never be too consistent. Making compromises won’t get you anywhere in the long term. You must constantly ensure that your actions align with your brand guidelines.
Which trends are shaping your industry, and what changes can you already see on the horizon?
We have noticed that shaving is becoming less class- and gender-specific. For young people in their early 20s in particular, it matters less and less whether a razor was originally designed for men or women, or for use on the face, legs or private parts. These categories are slowly disappearing. Understandably, young people are also more sensitive to issues such as the ‘pink tax’ — the fact that women’s products are often more expensive than men’s, despite using the same technology. Some trend researchers also categorise shaving as part of the wider cocooning trend: ‘It’s getting tougher and tougher out there — I make myself as comfortable as possible at home. I take care of myself and enjoy this time.”
About the Author
Gerrit Terstiege, born in 1968, lives and works in Mülheim/Ruhr. He studied under Michael Erlhoff and Gui Bonsiepe at the Cologne International School of Design (KISD) and the Glasgow School of Art, among others. He then worked for the magazine form from 1997 to 2012, becoming editor-in-chief in 2006. He has published three books with Birkhäuser Verlag, including ‘The Making of Design’ and ‘Graphic Spaces’. He has taught as a lecturer and visiting professor at Swiss and German universities since 1998. He is editor-in-chief of the Rams Foundation.
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